Short Cranks for Road Cycling: 160 vs 165 vs 170 and 172.5mm
Shorter road-bike cranks are now mainstream enough to be offered by Shimano and SRAM, but that does not make 160 or 165 mm automatically faster—or automatically right for you. The strongest case is fit: a smaller pedal circle can reduce peak hip and knee flexion, create more pedal clearance and make an aggressive position easier for some riders without an obvious power penalty over modest length changes.
This guide separates measured geometry from marketing. It explains what current research does and does not show, compares real crank options, and gives you a safe way to test a shorter setup without losing track of saddle height, gearing, power-meter settings or component compatibility.
Key takeaways: A 165 mm crank is 7.5 mm shorter than a 172.5 mm crank. That change may help riders constrained at the top of the pedal stroke, but height alone cannot prescribe the answer. Treat saddle adjustment, fit, compatibility and adaptation as part of the same change.

What Changes When the Crank Gets Shorter?
Crank length is the distance from the centre of the bottom-bracket axle to the centre of the pedal axle. Moving from 172.5 to 165 mm shortens that radius by 7.5 mm and reduces the diameter of the pedal circle by 15 mm. A move from 172.5 to 160 mm changes the radius by 12.5 mm and the diameter by 25 mm.
Those are the only universal numbers. Everything else—joint angles, cadence, comfort, aerodynamics and power—depends on the rider, bike position and how the fit is adjusted after the swap.
| Change | Radius difference | Pedal-circle diameter difference | Starting saddle-height compensation* |
|---|---|---|---|
| 172.5 → 170 mm | 2.5 mm shorter | 5 mm smaller | About +2.5 mm |
| 172.5 → 165 mm | 7.5 mm shorter | 15 mm smaller | About +7.5 mm |
| 172.5 → 160 mm | 12.5 mm shorter | 25 mm smaller | About +12.5 mm |
| 170 → 165 mm | 5 mm shorter | 10 mm smaller | About +5 mm |
*This preserves approximately the same maximum extension at the bottom of the stroke. It is a starting calculation, not a complete bike fit. Raising a saddle along an angled seat tube also moves it rearward, and cleat position changes effective leg extension.
A shorter arm also gives the pedal that same numerical increase in static ground clearance at bottom dead centre. It may reduce pedal-strike risk, but bottom-bracket height, tire size, pedal body, lean angle and road surface still matter.
What the Power Research Actually Says
The common shortcut—“short cranks do not reduce power”—needs qualification. In a well-known study of 16 trained cyclists, Jim Martin and William Spirduso tested 120, 145, 170, 195 and 220 mm cranks. The published abstract reports that maximum power was significantly affected across that very wide range, while concluding that a standard 170 mm crank should not substantially compromise maximum power for most adults.
That is not the same as proving that every length produces identical power. It does suggest that the range around common road sizes is forgiving, particularly when the rider can choose an appropriate gear and cadence.
A newer Sports Biomechanics study tested 14 amateur cyclists at their preferred length—between 165 and 172.5 mm—and at settings 5 and 10 mm longer or shorter. During submaximal trials, mean power did not change, while shorter settings reduced hip and knee flexion during parts of the pedal cycle and reduced some pelvic and transverse-plane movement.
The sensible reading is:
- modest changes can alter joint movement without automatically costing submaximal power;
- very short or very long extremes should not be treated as equivalent;
- a laboratory average cannot guarantee the same result for one rider;
- sprint starts, steep out-of-saddle efforts and seated endurance riding are not identical tasks;
- adaptation and gearing can influence how a new length feels.
Research on submaximal metabolic cost also argues against simple claims that a particular crank length is inherently more “efficient.” Power demand, pedal speed and the rider's chosen cadence all interact.
Hip, Knee and Pelvic Motion: The Strongest Fit Argument
At the top of the stroke, a longer crank brings the pedal—and therefore the knee—higher relative to the hip. A shorter crank can reduce the peak flexion demanded at the hip and knee. This can matter when a rider is already close to their comfortable range in the drops or aero extensions.

The 2026 kinematics study found measurable reductions in portions of hip and knee flexion with modestly shorter settings. It also recorded less pelvic obliquity and rotation in parts of the cycle. That supports using crank length as one tool during a fit. It does not prove that shorter cranks prevent injury or cure knee, hip or back pain.
Pain has many possible causes: training load, saddle position, cleat setup, strength, previous injury and medical conditions can all contribute. Persistent pain, numbness or loss of function deserves assessment by an appropriate clinician and, where relevant, a qualified bike fitter.
Consider a shorter-crank trial when you observe a specific constraint:
- the thigh crowds the torso at the top of the stroke;
- the pelvis rocks despite a reasonable saddle height;
- an aero position is limited primarily by hip closure;
- a smaller rider is given the same crank length as much taller riders;
- pedal clearance is a recurring issue in racing or technical terrain.
Do not choose a length from height alone. Two riders with the same inseam may have different hip mobility, femur-to-tibia proportions, foot length, injury history, goals and preferred position.
Aerodynamics and Cadence: Possibilities, Not Free Speed
Shorter cranks can create positional options. After the saddle is raised to preserve leg extension, a rider may gain more saddle-to-bar drop. The lower peak knee position can also leave more room between thigh and torso. That may help a rider hold an aerodynamic posture, but the outcome must be measured: a lower torso is not automatically faster if it increases drag elsewhere or cannot be sustained.

Professional adoption is useful context, not a fit prescription. Cyclingnews reported that SRAM introduced 150 and 155 mm RED crankarms in January 2026 after requests from professional riders, and documented Jonas Vingegaard's experimentation. The same report notes Tadej Pogačar's widely reported use of 165 mm Shimano arms. These riders have individual fit teams, equipment access and race objectives that do not automatically transfer to recreational cyclists.
Cadence may change because the foot travels a smaller circle, but there is no honest universal promise such as “you will spin 3–6 rpm faster.” Some riders self-select a higher cadence; others keep nearly the same cadence and simply use a different combination of pedal force and velocity. Test it with ride data rather than predicting the result.
Current Short-Crank Options from Shimano and SRAM
Short lengths are no longer confined to custom components. Shimano's official specifications list the 12-speed 105 FC-R7100 in 160, 165, 170, 172.5 and 175 mm, with 50/34T or 52/36T chainrings. Shimano specifies a 148 mm Q-factor and an average 754 g for the 170 mm 50/34T version.

Shimano's current specification handbook also lists 160 mm options for FC-R8100 Ultegra and FC-R9200 Dura-Ace. Availability differs by region and chainring combination, so verify the exact part number rather than assuming every shop stocks every length.
SRAM's current Force E1 crankarm assembly is offered in 160, 165, 170, 172.5 and 175 mm. Its 8-bolt interface works with compatible AXS spiders and integrated chainrings, with power and non-power configurations. Standard and Wide variants must not be confused; chainline and frame clearance differ.

| Current family | Listed short lengths | Interface / system | Main compatibility checks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shimano 105 FC-R7100 | 160, 165 mm | Hollowtech II, 2x12 | 24 mm-compatible BB, frame shell, 12-speed chain/rings, front derailleur |
| Shimano Ultegra FC-R8100 | 160, 165 mm | Hollowtech II, 2x12 | Same categories; verify exact rings and power-meter option |
| Shimano Dura-Ace FC-R9200 | 160, 165 mm | Hollowtech II, 2x12 | Exact arm/ring/power configuration and recall/service status |
| SRAM Force E1 crankarms | 160, 165 mm | DUB, 8-bolt AXS | Standard vs Wide, BB shell, spider/rings, frame clearance |
| SRAM RED current range | 150, 155, 160, 165 mm and longer | DUB, AXS | Premium price, standard/Wide/XPLR context, exact configuration |
For a cost-aware Shimano rider, check current Amazon listings for FC-R7100 160/165 mm ↗. For SRAM, check Force E1 short-crank listings ↗. Search results can mix generations and lengths, so confirm the manufacturer's model number before buying.
Compatibility Checklist Before You Buy
“Both use a 24 mm axle” or “both are DUB” is not enough. A crank swap can affect chainline, front shifting, bottom-bracket fit, power measurement and frame clearance.
| Check | Why it matters | What to verify |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom-bracket shell | Determines bearings/adapters | BSA, T47, BB86, BBright, PF30 or other exact standard |
| Axle and bearing system | Similar diameters do not guarantee fit | Shimano Hollowtech II vs SRAM DUB; approved BB model |
| Chainline / Q-factor | Affects front shifting and frame clearance | Standard vs Wide; ring position; chainstay clearance |
| Drivetrain generation | Rings and chains are system-specific | Speed, chain type, front derailleur and ring compatibility |
| Power meter | Sensor may be in pedal, spindle, arm or spider | Whether arms can be changed independently; recalibration procedure |
| Frame clearance | Arm/spider/ring can contact the frame | Manufacturer frame-fit drawings and minimum clearances |
| Pedal thread and installation | Incorrect torque can damage parts | Correct washers, grease, torque and left/right orientation |
SRAM publishes road frame-fit specifications for crankarm, chainring and power-meter clearance. Shimano provides component and dealer documentation through its product-information and service sites. Use both the frame maker's and crank maker's instructions.
If your current crank includes an integrated or spider power meter, identify what stays and what must be replaced. A pedal-based meter can usually move between cranksets, but the crank-length value may need updating in the meter, head unit or app. Follow the meter manufacturer's instructions because some systems detect or store this differently.
How to Set Up and Test a Shorter Crank
A controlled trial is more useful than buying a fashionable length and changing five other variables at once.
- Record the starting position. Measure saddle height using a repeatable reference, saddle setback, cleat position and handlebar stack. Photograph the setup.
- Choose a meaningful but conservative change. A 5–7.5 mm reduction is easier to evaluate than jumping from 175 to 150 mm without a fit reason.
- Raise the saddle by the crank-length difference as a starting point. Moving 172.5 → 165 mm suggests roughly +7.5 mm. Recheck because the saddle also moves rearward along the seat-tube angle.
- Leave the cockpit alone initially. First determine whether hip clearance, stability and pedalling feel improve. A lower cockpit can be evaluated later.
- Update the power-meter crank setting if required. Then perform the maker's zero-offset or calibration procedure.
- Use the same route or trainer session. Compare perceived exertion, cadence, stability, discomfort and power at similar intensities.
- Test seated and standing efforts. Include easy endurance, tempo, short climbs and starts; do not judge only from a five-minute spin.
- Allow several rides without ignoring pain. Coordination can feel different, but sharp pain or worsening symptoms are not an adaptation target.
A simple decision framework
| Result after several comparable rides | Next move |
|---|---|
| Better hip clearance and stable pelvis; no new problem | Keep testing before changing cockpit height |
| Same comfort and performance | Decide whether clearance/fit flexibility justifies the cost |
| Knee feels too flexed at bottom | Recheck saddle compensation and measurement method |
| New calf, Achilles, knee or hip symptoms | Stop escalating; restore the baseline and seek fit/clinical input |
| Power reads unexpectedly different | Verify crank-length setting, calibration and installation before interpreting fitness |
| Front shifting worsens | Check chainline, ring compatibility, derailleur height and setup |
Who Is Most Likely to Benefit?
The best candidate is not simply “a person under 170 cm.” Look for a mismatch between the rider's required position and the crank's pedal circle.
Smaller riders on stock bikes: Product managers often change frame dimensions more than component sizes. A 170 mm crank is proportionally larger relative to the leg of a small rider than it is for a tall rider.
Riders limited at the top of the stroke: If a sound fit shows excessive hip or knee closure, a shorter crank can create room without lowering the saddle and sacrificing extension.
Time-trial or aero-focused riders: Shorter arms may enable a sustainable torso position, but the position should be verified through comfort, repeatability and ideally aerodynamic testing.
Riders needing more pedal clearance: Criterium, fixed-gear and technical riders may value additional clearance. It reduces one risk factor but does not make pedalling through every corner safe.
Riders with pain: Crank length may be part of a professional assessment, but pain is not a reason to self-diagnose. A component change should not replace medical or rehabilitation advice.
Tall riders can also use short cranks; professional examples show that height is not a hard restriction. The opposite conclusion—“tall riders should all use 165 mm”—would be equally unjustified.
Common Mistakes and Misleading Claims
- Calling short cranks free watts. A fit or aero improvement may help, but the arm itself does not manufacture power.
- Promising pain relief. Research shows kinematic changes, not guaranteed treatment outcomes.
- Using pro choices as prescriptions. Professional setups are individual experiments with specialized support.
- Raising the saddle and lowering the bars simultaneously. This makes it hard to identify which change caused the result.
- Ignoring saddle setback. Raising a saddle on an angled seat tube moves it rearward unless compensated.
- Forgetting power-meter settings. A wrong stored crank length can distort torque-derived readings on relevant systems.
- Assuming every 24 mm or DUB crank is interchangeable. Chainline, frame shell, rings, generation and clearance still matter.
- Buying by the listing title. Marketplace listings frequently combine several lengths and generations on one page.
- Treating 2.5 mm as a revolution. Small changes can be measurable, but whether they are noticeable depends on the rider and problem.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will 165mm cranks reduce my power?
Not necessarily. Studies around common road-bike ranges show that modest changes can preserve submaximal or maximal power for many riders, but research does not prove every length is identical in every task. Test with suitable gearing and a corrected fit.
Should I choose crank length from my height or inseam?
Use body dimensions as context, not a complete prescription. Hip mobility, segment proportions, injury history, position, discipline and preference can make two riders with the same inseam choose differently.
How much should I raise my saddle?
As an initial geometric adjustment, raise it by the reduction in crank length: about 7.5 mm for 172.5 → 165 mm. Then recheck extension, setback, stability and comfort rather than treating that number as final.
Do shorter cranks automatically make cadence higher?
No. They reduce the distance the foot travels per revolution, and some riders choose a higher cadence, but cadence response varies with gearing, workload, habit and neuromuscular preference.
Can shorter cranks fix knee or back pain?
They can change hip, knee and pelvic kinematics and may be useful within a fit, but they are not a guaranteed treatment. Persistent or significant pain requires appropriate assessment.
Do I need different gearing?
Not automatically. Keep the same gearing for the first controlled comparison. If your preferred cadence or high-torque feel changes after adaptation, evaluate gearing separately.
Can I keep my existing bottom bracket?
Sometimes. The new crank must match the approved axle/bearing system and frame shell, and chainline and clearance must remain correct. Verify exact model documentation before assuming compatibility.
Must I update my power meter?
Some pedal-based and other torque-calculating systems require the correct crank length in the meter, app or head unit. Check the manufacturer's procedure and recalibrate after installation.
Final Verdict
Shorter cranks are a legitimate fit option, not a universal upgrade. A move from 172.5 to 165 mm has clear geometry and credible evidence for reducing portions of hip and knee flexion without automatically reducing submaximal power. What it does for your comfort, cadence and aerodynamics still has to be tested.
Start with the constraint you are trying to solve, choose a current compatible product, preserve your baseline measurements and change one variable at a time. For most curious riders, 165 mm is a more practical experiment than an immediate leap to 150 or 155 mm. The best result is not the shortest crank—it is the shortest or longest crank that lets you ride your intended position comfortably, repeatedly and without creating a new problem.
Affiliate disclosure: RydeCruz may earn a commission from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links, at no extra cost to you. Product availability and prices can change.