Tubeless road tyres seal most small punctures on the move and let you run lower pressures without pinch flats. The catch is the setup: tape, valves, sealant and seating the bead all have to be right. This guide follows the official procedures published by Schwalbe, Continental, Zipp and Stan's NoTubes, and it flags where they disagree.

Key Takeaways

• You need a tubeless-ready rim (or a rim sealed with tubeless tape), a tubeless valve, a tubeless-ready tyre and sealant.
• Tape should match the rim's internal width or be slightly wider: Stan's recommends 1–2 mm wider (27 mm tape on a 25 mm rim), with two layers at road pressures.
• Hand-tighten the valve nut. Zipp and Continental both warn against tools; overtightening can cause slow leaks.
• Sealant dose depends on the brand: official figures for a 28 mm road tyre range from 35 ml (Stan's Rolled Gold) to 60–90 ml (Continental's catalogue).
• On hookless rims, the limit falls with tyre width: 5.0 bar for 25–29 mm, 4.5 bar for 30–34 mm. Use the lowest of the rim's, the tyre's and the ETRTO limit.
• Avoid CO2 for setup. Schwalbe says not to use it, Continental says it can clump sealant, and Zipp says CO2 escapes about five times faster than air.

How Tubeless Works

A tubeless system replaces the inner tube with an airtight rim bed, a valve that seals against the rim, and a tyre bead that locks onto the rim shoulder. Liquid sealant inside the tyre coats the casing, seals the tiny pores in it, and plugs small punctures as air rushes out of them.

Schwalbe is explicit that its TLE tyres "must always be run with sealant". A tubeless-ready tyre without sealant is not a sealed system.

Check Your Rim and Tyre First

Rim type. Tubeless-ready rims come in two profiles. Hooked rims have a lip that helps hold the bead. Hookless (straight-sided) rims do not, so pressure limits are much stricter.

Hookless pressure limits. Schwalbe publishes the ETRTO limits for hookless rims by tyre width:

Always use the lowest of three numbers: the rim maker's maximum, the tyre maker's hookless maximum (Continental prints it on the packaging), and the ETRTO limit. The pressure moulded on a tyre's sidewall is usually a hooked-rim figure. Schwalbe's Pro One 28 mm, for example, says 6.5 bar on the sidewall, but on hookless rims its limit is 5.0 bar.

Continental adds a useful warning: pressure rises about 0.17 bar for every 10 °C rise in temperature, so do not set a hookless tyre to its exact maximum on a cold morning before a hot ride.

Tyre approval. Not every size of a hookless-approved tyre is approved. Pirelli excludes the 26 mm P ZERO Race TLR, and Vittoria excludes the 24 and 26 mm Corsa PRO TLR. Zipp's wheels also need hookless-approved tyres, and Zipp keeps its own compatibility list.

Tools and Materials

• Tubeless rim tape in the right width (see below), unless your rim is already sealed.
• Tubeless valves long enough for your rim. Stan's sizes its Universal valves by the tallest rim they suit, from 20 mm up to DEEP 85.
• Sealant and a way to inject it (through the valve with the core removed).
• Valve core tool.
• Isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag. Stan's warns against WD-40, degreasers and mineral spirits.
• Floor pump with gauge. A tubeless booster or compressor helps seat stubborn beads; Schwalbe's Tire Booster is charged to 11 bar with a floor pump.
• Tyre levers (plastic) and soapy water or mounting fluid.

Choosing tape width. Stan's says to choose tape 1–2 mm wider than the rim's internal width. Muc-Off says to match the internal width and round up to the next size if there is no exact match. Zipp specifies a tape width for each of its rims.

Step-by-Step Setup

This sequence combines the Zipp, Continental and Schwalbe procedures.

1. Clean the rim bed. Remove old tape, spray isopropyl alcohol on the rim bed, wipe it and let it dry (Zipp). Spin the wheel to clear alcohol from the spoke holes.
2. Tape the rim. Start between the two spoke holes opposite the valve hole and press the first 10–13 cm into the channel. Keep tension on the tape so it sits in the centre channel, then overlap the start by 15 cm (Zipp). Press the end down so sealant cannot creep under it. Use the number of wraps your rim maker specifies: Continental asks for at least two layers, Stan's says two layers at road pressures, while Zipp lists one wrap for most of its current road rims.
3. Fit the valve. Light the valve hole from the other side, then pierce the tape with a pick (Zipp advises against cutting with scissors or a knife). Fit the valve from inside the rim and hand-tighten the nut only.

1. Mount the tyre. Check the rotation arrow. Fit the first bead, then the second, working the beads into the rim's centre channel to create slack. Use levers carefully so you do not damage the tape. Soapy water or mounting fluid on the beads helps them slide and seal.

1. Seat the bead. Remove the valve core for maximum airflow and inflate quickly. Zipp suggests pumping to 30 psi to start; the beads usually pop or click as they seat. Check the moulded line above the rim is an even distance from the rim all the way round, on both sides. If not, let some air out and work the tyre by hand.
2. Add sealant. Either pour it in before fitting the last section of the second bead, or inject it through the valve with the core removed. Continental advises injecting with the valve at 5 or 7 o'clock, not at the bottom, and inflating with the valve at 11 or 1 o'clock so sealant does not clog the core.
3. Spread the sealant. Refit the core and inflate. Zipp's method: hold the wheel horizontal, tilt it up and down vigorously, rotate it 90° and repeat all the way round, then flip it and do the other side. Schwalbe says the seal is complete only after riding, and asks for at least 25 km straight after adding sealant to its Pro One TLE tyres.
4. Check pressure the next day. Schwalbe says to pump up again after 24 hours. Zipp considers a 10–20% pressure loss over 24 hours normal; losing 50% or more within 24–48 hours means a leak.

How Much Sealant?

Official figures for a 28 mm road tyre vary widely, so follow the instructions for the sealant you use.

Two practical points from the makers:

• Don't mix brands. Orange Seal and Muc-Off both advise removing the old sealant before switching.
• Heat dries sealant faster. Stan's says arid climates need more frequent checks, and Muc-Off asks for extra attention above 35 °C.

Tubeless Road Tyres Compared

All four are offered in widths beyond 28 mm: the GP5000 S TR up to 35 mm, the Pro One up to 38 mm, the P ZERO Race TLR up to 40 mm, and the Corsa PRO up to 32 mm.

Troubleshooting

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use CO2 to seat a tubeless tyre?

The makers advise against it. Schwalbe says not to inflate with CO2, Continental says CO2 can clump sealant, and Zipp says CO2 escapes about five times faster than air. Muc-Off allows it if applied from the top of the wheel. Replace CO2 with air after the ride.

How wide should my rim tape be?

Stan's says 1–2 mm wider than the rim's internal width; Muc-Off says match it and round up. Check your rim maker's recommendation first.

How often should I add sealant?

It depends on the brand and climate: from 30–45 days (Orange Seal Regular, per its 2015 sheet) to 2–7 months (Stan's Original, Schwalbe Doc Blue). Continental says check every 3–6 months.

What is the maximum pressure on hookless rims?

For 25–29 mm tyres it is 5.0 bar; for 30–34 mm, 4.5 bar. Use the lowest of the rim's, the tyre's and this limit.

Is losing some pressure overnight normal?

Yes. Zipp says 10–20% over 24 hours is normal. A 50% loss in 24–48 hours indicates a leak.

Can I run a tubeless-ready tyre with a tube?

Yes. Zipp notes tubes are fine on its hookless rims as long as the tyre has a tubeless bead. Remove the tubeless valve first.

Do I need to ride straight after adding sealant?

Schwalbe recommends it: the seal is complete only once the tyre has flexed and the casing is fully coated, and for Pro One TLE it asks for at least 25 km.

Final Checklist

Before your first ride on a new tubeless setup, confirm: the tape is the right width and wrap count for your rim, the valve nut is hand-tight, the bead line is even on both sides, you used the sealant dose your sealant maker recommends, and your pressure is below the lowest applicable limit for hookless rims. Pump up again after 24 hours, then record the date so you know when to check the sealant.

Sources

• Schwalbe tubeless FAQ and hookless requirements
• Continental Tire Range 2026/27 (PDF) and hookless vs hooked rims
• Zipp tubeless tape service manual (PDF) and Zipp tubeless troubleshooting
• Stan's rim tape and how much sealant
• Muc-Off Road & Gravel sealant
• Vittoria Corsa PRO Tubeless-Ready and Pirelli P ZERO Race TLR

Equipment mentioned in this guide

• Stan's NoTubes tubeless rim tape
• Stan's NoTubes Universal tubeless valves
• Continental Grand Prix 5000 S TR

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